Ivrea: orange battles, the Alps, and zero tourists

- Italy -

If you think that Northern Italy, and Piedmont in particular, is nothing but mountains and vineyards, think again, or maybe you just haven't been to Ivrea. This small Piedmontese town of just over twenty thousand people is sure to surprise you. Somehow, downright bizarre medieval traditions and the legacy of 20th-century industrial idealism manage to coexist here incredibly organically.

What is Ivrea famous for?

First and foremost, once a year, people here hurl oranges at each other, completely legally and with massive enthusiasm. Yes, indeed, the Carnival of Ivrea (Carnevale di Ivrea) is famous for its Battle of the Oranges. If you come here in February, brace yourself for the aroma of citrus that won't air out for a week, and you’d better not even step outside during the battle days without a red hat (which serves as a sign of immunity).
Secondly, Ivrea (not Turin!) is the birthplace of Olivetti typewriters. In 2018, the industrial complex built by the Olivetti family for their workers was even named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It's a rare example of socially responsible business: spacious, bright workshops, kindergartens, and libraries for the employees. A vivid example that a factory can look like an architectural monument, rather than just a dreary concrete box.

How to get to Ivrea?

The easiest way to get there is by train from Turin (and it is, in fact, pretty much your only option). You grab a ticket for a regional train (Regionale), ideally online, and in 50-60 minutes you’re there. I highly recommend checking for strikes before planning your trip, otherwise you might not go anywhere at all. I actually managed to get caught in one myself, which is why I had to push my trip back by a day.

What to see in town?

Even if you arrive outside the orange-battle season and the streets are quiet, there is plenty to see in Ivrea.

Ivrea Castle (Castello di Ivrea)

Built from red brick in the 14th century by Amadeus VI of Savoy (nicknamed the "Green Count" because he always showed up at tournaments and duels dressed in green). The castle looks... well, like a proper castle — meaning it looks formidable, with four imposing towers and incredibly thick walls. By the way, for a long time, it served as a prison.

The castle in winter (photo by Wikimedia)

The Cathedral

Also known as the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. Any guesses on which century it was built in? The 4th! Of course, almost nothing remains of the original structure, but inside you can still spot elements from various eras. Don't be lazy — take the time to step inside; the cathedral's interior is highly unusual and richly decorated.

Ponte Vecchio

Spanning the Dora Baltea river. The water here is an unusual milky-turquoise color because it flows straight down from the Mont Blanc glaciers. The bridge offers the best and most iconic photo spots in the city.

The Olivetti building

If you're into modernist architecture and industrial history, take a stroll down Via Jervis. Check out the factories and residential quarters designed by the leading architects of their time.

Olivetti building (photo by Wikimedia)

Parco della Polveriera

If you still have some energy left, you can walk over to Parco della Polveriera. It’s an absolutely quiet, secluded spot where you’ll hardly ever run into anyone. Plus, it opens up to some beautiful views of Lake San Michele.

Ivrea might not be the most popular tourist spot in Piedmont, but it’s undoubtedly a lively, cozy, and highly original town. It is absolutely worth breaking away to wander along the rushing Dora Baltea and grab some excellent gelato. A truly off-the-beaten-path option for a day trip from Turin.