Manila — the most unusual capital of Southeast Asia

Manila is a vast urban agglomeration. Administratively, the city of Manila itself is quite small — about 42.9 km² — yet it’s home to around 2 million people!

What people usually refer to as “Manila” is actually Metro Manila, the capital region that includes 16 cities and 1 municipality, such as Makati, Pasay, Taguig, and others.

The city is divided into 17 districts, including Intramuros, Binondo, Tondo, Ermita, Quiapo, and Malate. These districts are further divided into barangays — the smallest administrative units, similar to neighborhoods. Each barangay has its own local governance and elected head, and every single one feels completely different from the others.

I flew to Manila from Tokyo, and the contrast was striking: trash on the streets, not particularly well-maintained buildings, and some rather suspicious-looking people in the Pasay City area.

The airport, frankly, felt quite basic — long queues and a very modest duty-free area.

The first thing that caught my eye was the local “tuk-tuk” cars, although they look quite different from the Thai ones — longer, and more like poorly preserved old cars. A ride costs about 15 PHP (roughly $0.25), but even for me, it felt like a bit of an extreme experience.

The second thing I noticed was the number of police stations and security guards on the streets. Naturally, it raised questions about safety. Hotel staff reassured me: “Ma’am, the city center is completely safe”. But what about the outskirts?

My hotel was located in Binondo, near Chinatown — right in the heart of the city. It’s one of the liveliest areas in Manila. There’s constant chaos: people, motorcycles, and cars all squeezed into narrow streets, creating endless traffic jams and noise. But it’s incredibly atmospheric!

On the northern side of the Pasig River, in the Binondo district, lies the oldest Chinatown in the world.

It was established in 1594 by Spanish colonial authorities as a settlement for Chinese traders who converted to Catholicism. That’s why Binondo is considered the oldest surviving Chinatown in the world.

The area itself is incredibly diverse: remnants of colonial architecture like Binondo Church stand next to Chinatown streets, while less appealing high-rise buildings fill the gaps in between. Life here never stops — it’s one of the most densely populated districts in Manila.

This is the main tourist area of Manila — and essentially the one place that truly feels like a must-see.

Its history dates back to the mid-16th century, when the Spanish conquistador Miguel López de Legazpi founded a fortified city here, which became the political and religious center of the Spanish colony in the Philippines. The name Intramuros literally means “within the walls” — the district is surrounded by stone fortifications that once protected it from invasions.

The main landmark here is the Manila Cathedral (officially the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception). It has been destroyed and rebuilt eight times. The first church on this site appeared in 1571 and was originally made of bamboo and palm leaves. Over the centuries, fires, earthquakes, and wars repeatedly damaged it. The most severe destruction occurred during the Battle of Manila (1945) in World War II. The current version of the cathedral — the eighth — was completed in 1958.

Intramuros is where Spanish heritage has been best preserved, while most of Manila is dominated by modern (and not always attractive) architecture.

Interestingly, Spanish influence is still present in the Filipino language (Tagalog), where many Spanish words are still used today.

Near Rizal Park stands the National Museum of Fine Arts (Manila).

Interestingly, its history mirrors that of Manila Cathedral — it has also undergone several reconstructions.

Admission is free, which is a pleasant surprise. The museum spans four floors, each dedicated to different artistic periods and styles. It turns out the Philippines has produced many talented artists — for example, an entire floor is devoted to Juan Luna.

Even if you’re not deeply into art, it’s worth visiting simply to admire the interiors.

What truly impressed me in the Philippines was the people.

Filipinos are some of the most open, friendly, and genuinely warm people I’ve ever met in all my travels — they might even outshine the Japanese in this regard.

Traveling here feels very comfortable. Almost everyone speaks English fluently, as it’s one of the country’s official languages.

Be prepared to hear constant small talk:

“Ma’am, how are you? How do you like Manila?”

I found these little interactions incredibly endearing.

Why do people in a country with such rich history and architecture often live in poverty?

There are several reasons, and they are tied more to the country’s social structure than to the city itself. For decades, Manila has grown due to internal migration — people from rural areas moving to the capital in search of better jobs and income. However, urban growth has far outpaced the development of infrastructure and affordable housing. As a result, informal settlements have rapidly expanded around business districts and the historic center.

A striking example is Barangay 649 — an area even locals tend to avoid.

At the same time, there are well-developed parts of the city, such as the business district of Makati, where it’s clean, safe, and full of skyscrapers.

The Philippines, along with Vietnam, is considered one of the cheapest travel destinations.

I’ve never before taken a 45-minute taxi ride from the airport for about $3–4, or stayed in a four-star chain hotel in the city center for around $30 per night! Restaurant portions are large, and the average dish costs around $4–5.

Of course, resort destinations like Cebu or Boracay are more expensive — but still generally cheaper than an "all inclusive" in Turkey, and certainly more affordable than the Maldives.

In my opinion, Manila is a one-time destination — but definitely worth seeing.

Don’t expect paradise beaches — the capital of the Philippines is not about relaxing by the ocean. It’s a noisy, chaotic, yet fascinating city.

If you’re planning a longer trip around the Philippines, Manila should absolutely be on your list. The people alone will make your stay memorable — and chances are high you’ll leave with new acquaintances!